Schott N.Y.C.

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Melton wool or Kersey wool for a pea coat?

I have been researching pea coast a bit lately and it seems prior to the 1970's kersey wool was used in the peacoats which was much more dense, warm, and heavy than the melton wool.

I am not sure if the weight of the wool used in the Schott Pea Coat is the same as the melton wool used in the USN issue pea coasts, but why does Schott use melton over kersey.  Is it as warm and as dense?  About how much does a Schott Pea Coat weigh in pounds?



Gail on 07/30/08 at 08:31 AM

I have listed a site that you can check as I was not sure what Kersey wool was. From several sites, I could determine it was wool first made in England and was a poorer quality and less expensive wool.

If you check on our website under the option "About Schott" it confirms we produced the Naval peacoat in WWII for the Navy. We continue to make the Schott peacoat to the same "Naval Military Spec" of over 60 years which is 32 oz. Melton wool. With any military item, they require the highest standards in materials and workmanship. Also if you click onto the peacoat style 740 the description of the jacket gives an informative and great history review of the peacoat.

Our Melton wool peacoat is heavy, durable and very warm. Gail



JLStorm on 07/30/08 at 11:28 AM

Thanks for the information Gail.  Do you know what years Schott actually made the pea coat for the Navy?  I believe when you say 32oz, you mean per yard, correct?  If so, approximately how many yards are in an average sized jacket?  Im just trying to guage the average weight in pounds of this pea coat. 

Through the research I have done, it seems like many say while all pea coats that are USN contract are great, after 1970 or 1980 (its vague) the pea coat lost some weight and wind resistance.  Most attrabute this to changing from Kersey to Melton, but in reading your information, it doesnt seem like this change is the actual cuase of the the weight reduction and lose of some wind resistance. 



Gail on 07/31/08 at 09:32 AM

I do not have the actual years we did a military contract for the peacoat. In the past few years we have done the military leather  Naval G-1 flight jackets, but not the peacoat. To the best of of my knowledge since WWII when we started making the Naval peacoat  the spec was 32 oz. Melton, we continue to use the same spec in the peacoats we produce today.

The 32 oz. weight represents per yard, depending on the jacket size, the average jacket  takes approximately 2-1/4 yds of wool, which would be about 4-1/2 lbs.


JLStorm on 08/01/08 at 02:02 AM

Thanks for the information Gail.  I found out that the current issue Peacoats use 24oz melton wool and not 32oz, that may be why the older ones feel more substantial and resist wind better.

ZW16 on 01/18/16 at 06:58 PM

I can answer some of the questions on the Navy Pea coat since I am 30 years retired Navy and was issued mine post ww2. Kersey wool was primary ww2 issued. The navy contracted Melton wool 32 ounces 100% wool post ww2 and the Korean war. That was what mine was made of the beginning of the Korean war and it was short nap heavy and very warm. Later on, as usual, Navy budgets affected quality and coats went to 80% wool and reprocessed. My three sons served in 1990 and their coats were not at all as good as mine was. Note I still have mine. Also would add ww2 coats were 10 buttons and storm flap then became 6 buttons. I am not sure who all was the contractor of Pea coats but do know mine was Naval Clothing Factory.

You won't find any coats today made to actual Navy specs as Style and cost have a big effect. You can get some Vintage or actual Navy issued on E Bay but buyer beware.

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