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To Anyone With Both a 618 & a 613S(H)

Howdy,

 

So I bought both a 641 HH and a brown 618 when my chest measured 41" last year. I worked in tailoring and my wife is a seamstress so I peeped the specs and knew sizing down to a 40 would get the fit I wanted (at least in the 618; I regret not going two sizes down in the 641 HH even now. IDK why on earth Schott says it's their slimmest jacket because it is by every metric not).

Anyway, I am getting a black asymmetrical jacket in a month and the 613SH has my attention. My current measurements now that I've been training in boxing and Krav Maga for a year are 42.5" chest and 18.5" shoulders. My size 40 618 still fits perfectly to my taste; I have very little mobility on the bike when layering but I have the Brandon Flowers look you guys all love. The chest on it is 22" laying flat and 18.25" in the shoulders. 

The 613SH in a 40 though, while the chest remains the same as the 618, loses half an inch in the shoulders coming in at 17.75". I simply don't have it to give, not even if I I wore it shirtless. 

The size 42 613SH is 23" laying flat, same as my 641HH which I wish had less in the chest, but importantly the shoulders would be 18 3/8", which is 1/16" on either side... absolutely imperceptible. 

So has anyone with both, particularly those who prefer a snug to very snug fit like me, noticed having to size up in the 613S? How much does the diagonal zip help with bunching if the chest has more material than desired? 

The thing is is I want this jacket to be everything... fashion yet rideable, form fitting as can be in a tee shirt yet a little more comfortable layering than my current 618, and I'm 6'3" so I want more length in the body and sleeves. I love the shortness of my 618 it's perfect for sitting down but I want something more modern yet every bit as rock n roll.

Thanks Gentlemen, and Gail... please help ease my mind before I can make it to Schott NYC in SF next month. The other thing is I need to know which jackets I'm likely to get so I can call ahead and make sure they get them in stock. I have to purchase in person so I can immediately send it in to the factory and get collar and buckle snaps put on. They won't allow me to purchase off the site and do so.

20190208_1705041.jpg 20190208_1704061.jpg 20190208_1706081.jpg

TradCat on 02/11/19 at 02:43 AM

One more fit pic of my current 618. 

20190208_1704331.jpg

lostandfound on 02/11/19 at 06:31 AM

i've owned both of them.  the 613S has a longer back length and longer sleeves than the 618. but a tighter chest and shoulder, it also doesn't footballs.  also, Horsehide is very stiff, so that factors.  neither are "fashion" jackets imo.  they are both more rider type jackets.  if you want a fashion jacket, you should get a 519, or a 626, or one of the P-types...P633 P613S PER22 P213 PER70 etc.  

If you want a fashion jacket, steer away from the "steerhide", or horsehide, they are just too stiff and not very soft, they just don't work well for non-riders (which I am).

You can't have everything in one jacket.  That is not possible.  That's why you need many jackets.  

Gail on 02/11/19 at 08:06 AM

First let me say at your height of 6'3" you need a long size in a jacket. Looking at your photos the back and sleeve length are too short for you. The sleeve on a riding jacket should be at least 1-1/2" past the wrist to allow when arms are outstretched and the sleeve rides up. Unfounately yu can not purchase a jacket for 2 different types of fit, one being a snug fit when wearing a t-shirt and another looser fit to allow for layering. As always I can advise yu on what size you need but when a individual has a preference in fit then they need to try on jackets to get the fit they want. Based on a 41" chest size and wanting a snug fit I would recommend the 118L (long) in a size 40. Depending on how much you want to layer you may need a 42. I can only suggest you contact Denise in customer service and request the spec measurement for the 618 & the 118L so yu can compare the sizing of the 2 jackets. The 118L is a updated fit and is a more pliable leather, not as stiff as a horsehide or steerhide jacket.

Gail

Email: Denise@schottnyc.com

TradCat on 02/11/19 at 03:23 PM

Thanks Lostandfound. I hear you, and what I mean is a more fashion-forward riding jacket. So it sounds like the 613SH is for me, but looking at the specs I can't get it in a 40 for sure hehe.

Thanks Gail, while this post wasn't really about a fit check on my 618 I do appreciate the advice. I love how my 618 fits. These jackets are meant to be short and I don't feel it's too short to ride in. It's on the cusp but it works. I wish Schott made long versions of their slimmer cuts. It doesn't make sense to create the 100 series for the modern guy then assume they're all big boys with beer bellies. I've seen the specs and the 118 is not for me, not even sizing down would work. It's just too roomy of a cut. I need the tapered waist of the vintage patterns.

lostandfound on 02/12/19 at 01:43 AM

With the fit you posted, you can't get that in the 613SH imo in a 40.  It will be too tight in the shoulders.  And there are no footballs, which erodes the mobility even more.  The back length will be longer, but just slightly.  It's not worth it imo.

You would have to get 42.  And just accept a more "relaxed" fit.  Or take Gail's rec of the 118, that is actually a great rec because it still has footballs, and you can get the Long version in size 40.  Although it will still be alot roomier than your 618.  It has a snap also, but it is cowhide, and cowhide is very different than steerhide in terms of feel and protection level.  

A 118 in size 38 would fit very close to your 618 40.  The specs are basically identical.    But it won't be longer as you want.

But you can't get it in long, the long only starts at 40 and up.  And it is cowhide again.  Cowhide is very soft, and pliable, it's still heavy but it isn't protective.

If I was you though, I would have my 618 as my riding jacket, and then get another jacket, that is meant for Fashion and comfort.  Take both with you on your bike. 

You really need multiple jackets.  You can't have an "everything" jacket.

 

So you have alot of jackets to get. :)

TradCat on 02/12/19 at 03:46 AM

Sizing down in a 118 would work if the 38 was as long as a 40 per was available on long but as I mentioned earlier, their options for tall and slim people are a joke. You are probably correct in that a 42 613SH will probably satisfy me the most, which was my working assumption before posting here; I cannot lose a half inch in the shoulder and at the same time lose the underarm panels with the size 40. I'll still be able to fit a layer in under a 42, but a 40 likely wouldn't be possible even with a tee shirt only. 

I need a black asymmetrical jacket  I will continue riding in my brown 618. Schott are so great because their jackets look good even off the bike. If I wanted a jacket for nothing but riding I would get a Langlitz or something else like that; I'm a Schott man because I'm into form AND function.

Gail on 02/12/19 at 08:53 AM

Just want to let you know that our style 118L (long size) is offered from a size 36. So a size 38 would be available.

Gail

TradCat on 02/12/19 at 11:50 AM

Really Gail? That's not what the spec sheet showed that I saw. I'll have to ask for an updated one. I have a really long vest Ingot years ago and I hate it. I just prefer how shorter stuff fits. But also, I've never had anything the length I need that is also as trim as I need. I'm not rail thin but my chest is at least 6 inches larger than my waist.

TradCat on 02/12/19 at 02:27 PM

Gail wrote:

Just want to let you know that our style 118L (long size) is offered from a size 36. So a size 38 would be available.

Gail

You know what, Gail, I just got the specs for a 38 Long in the 118 and that may just be the one. Luckily I'm in Sacramento and there's a new Schott store in SF so I can try everything on before pulling the trigger. Looks like a 118 in a 38L or the 613SH in a 42 will give me the most desired fit.

lostandfound on 02/13/19 at 01:01 AM

Don't forget, the leather type has a big impact on how it will fit and look on your body.  The 118 is Cowhide, the 613SH is horsehide and probably noticeably stiffer.

 

But even between two different cowhide jackets, I notice a big difference.  My 519 cowhide is very soft, my PER70 cowhide is quite stiff.  I have had 618HH and 613SH, and they were stiff, and very close to the same stiffness as my PER70.  Even though it is cowhide.  So this all matters when you want a snug fitting jacket, because one will be very restricting vs the the soft one.

TradCat on 02/13/19 at 02:51 AM

Meh it'll get softer with time. Idk what it is but I don't like super soft leather. Even boots. My favorite boot leather is the veg tanned RW Heritage stuff. They get super soft and comfortable but you have to earn it. That's me. And IMO nothing beats the shine and tight grain of horsehide. I know objectively the naked cow is supposed to be their best leather but I'm not into the matte finish I prefer the stiffness of horsehide and steerhide and the gloss and satin finishes, respectively.

lostandfound on 02/13/19 at 03:13 AM

You know what you like best!

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