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Schott Perfecto timeline

Hello everyone. I thought it would be a good idea to post a timeline of some the changes made to the Perfectos (613/618/118) over the years. The 'Perfectos - Old and new-thread is getting to be too long and the posts are in the wrong order (since the server change) so I think it's time to start fresh. If anyone has any corrections or additional information on the timeline please chime in. Only the changes are noted, if something stays the same it is left out. Here goes...

 

Late 1940's - The 613 One Star is introduced. Jackets are made out of horsehide. Neck label is rectangular, black with Perfecto App U.S Pat ??? Genuine Horsehide Front Quarter - Style Quality printed in gold letters. TALON main and cuff zippers and 'Miter' belt buckle. Zipper pulls in the shape of a ring. Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 50° angle, zippers close up. Jackets have snaps for attaching fur collar, no snaps on collar, plain snaps, sleeves are double stitched, epaulettes are also double stitched and have a rounded end. Stitching on collar is placed further in than it is on lapels. Lining is black with grid stitching. Straight lower back panel and underside of sleeves are one piece. Inner lower facing and sleeve placates are made out of faux leather/vinyl. 

 

Early 1950's - The 618 is introduced, it is identical to the 613 except for the lack of stars.

 

Early 1960's - Jackets are made out of steerhide. Neck label is black with Style Quality Perfecto Genuine Steerhide All Hand Cut in creme and red letters on coat of arms/crest. Small long white size tag with black letters directly below neck label. Schott Bros. Inc. printed on leather neck hanger. Stitching on collar and lapels is placed at the same distance from edge. Epaulettes have one seam and a pointy end. ESKO cuff zippers (?) Side pockets are at an approx. 55° angle and breast pocket at a 65° angle. 

 

Late 1960's - Neck label is black with bull and cactus, Perfecto genuine steerhide - handcut Schott Bros. Small white size tag with red letters directly below neck label.

 

Early 1970's - Neck label is square, black with Schott in white curly letters above orange and yellow coat of arms (lion? and unicorn on the sides of it and an S in the middle). 'Arrow head' inside ring zipper pulls.

 

Mid - late 1970's - Jackets are made out of steerhide (613/618) and naked cowhide (118, introduced in 1977). Neck label is rectangular, creme white with bull in upper left corner, Perfecto in yellow diagonal stripe and by Schott Bros. in lower right corner. Small white size tag with red letters directly to the right of neck label. TALON cuff zippers. 'Ring' zipper pulls. Side pockets are at an approx. 55° angle and breast pocket at a 60° angle.

 

Early 1980's - Schott NYC appears on neck label, small white size tag with black letters directly to the right of neck label, tag with american flag and Made in U.S.A directly to the right of neck label (under small white size tag). Nothing printed on leather neck hanger. Schott (YKK) main zipper, EMAR cuff zippers and rectangular belt buckle with oval sides. Pocket zippers now close down. Lining goes all the way down inside of jackets, leather sleeve placates. A slight dip in bottom part of lower back panel, otherwise straight.

 

Mid 1980's - Schott stops producing the 613 One Star. Underarm footballs, two piece underside sleeves, oval lower back panel, inside pocket and snaps on collar are introduced. Snaps for attaching fur collar are removed (no fur collar produced). Snaps have Schott stamped on them. Motorcycle rider instead of bull appears on neck label, size is printed on the american flag tag. Leather inner lower facing. Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 50° angle (reverse from what they were in the 1960's-70's and more like they were in the 1950's), side pockets are moved further away from the center of the jackets and down a bit. Square thin buckle is introduced. 

 

Late 1980's / 1990's - Schott reintroduces the 613 One Star (in steerhide with mid 70's neck label) but without snaps for the fur collar and with inner pocket. Snaps on 613 are plain. Snaps for fur collar back on 618/118. Style 118 is updated to a fuller fit, 613/618 retain original slim fit. Schott NYC chrome main zipper, IDEAL sleeve zippers and bigger square belt buckle (by Century Canada) are introduced. Side pockets are at an approx. 60° angle and breast pocket at a 45° angle.

 

Today - Style 118 is fitted with new chrome pocket zippers with different pulls (Schott recently switched back to the original chain zipper pulls) and a snap under the belt buckle to prevent it from damaging the gas tank. The side pockets on the 118 have supposedly been moved closer to the center of the jacket for easier access. The 613/618 have not been updated since the early 1990's as far as I know.

 

Thank you /Chris                   

zxc1974 on 01/08/07 at 09:52 PM

Chris, Excellent work! Just wanted you to know on my '70s 613 there is "Schott Bros inc." on the hang loop in silver letters. Very faint, but it's there. This probably doesn't apply to all late '70s 613s, as details in the timeline overlap.

crippe on 01/08/07 at 10:08 PM

Thanks, I wonder why they changed the pocket placement back to 50's style back in the 80's...? 

crippe on 01/09/07 at 07:37 AM

zxc1974, is there anything printed on the back of your buckles? On my buckles it says Century Canada and C Canada. Thanks.

 

/Chris

zxc1974 on 01/09/07 at 08:13 AM

No markings, the old Miter buckle and 80s oval sided buckle are blank and thin, unlike the modern square buckles that have "Canada" embossed on the back, which are also thicker and shinier(chrome plated nickle?).

leathertime on 01/09/07 at 11:00 AM

I have a Schott "Dur-o-Jak" 1-Star from the 1950's, I believe.  (It's not the 1980's economy model Schott Duro-Jac.) It's label is green with an Eskimo and Igloo picture, and "Hand Cut Leather" on the tag also.  This has the cuff zippers on top of the sleeve, rather than underneath the sleeves like all other Perfectos old and new.  It seems to have thicker insulation than any other Perfectos I have seen or come across.  Was there ever an early "Perfecto" with top sleeve zippers that you can recall?  Keep up the good work!

crippe on 01/15/07 at 05:44 PM

I've found an anomaly in the timeline (sounds like a line from Star Trek...:) Check out the pictures below of two late 60's Perfectos (both bull/cactus label), the second one has a seam just below the armpit. I've seen this seam on a couple of 70's jackets and of course on the new ones.  

 

/Chris 

618_60s_42_c.jpg cactus_back.jpg

crippe on 01/26/07 at 05:04 PM

Just a small update made about the 70s/80s size tags with black letters and the 118 zipper pulls.

 

/Chris

crippe on 04/20/07 at 09:02 AM

Update on zipper pulls. /Chris

bilbok on 06/23/07 at 06:13 PM

I don't catch the story of the snap to protect the tank. Please explain.

 

Seems that 1980/90 patterns were tighter than current ones and therefore no true to fit. Is it correct?

 

I wear a 42 cafe racer in steerhide and I have an old 118 cowhide in 46 (too large but not as much as 2 sizes as a 44 would fit)

 

Thanks

 

 

Avi68 on 01/29/09 at 11:14 AM

the snap keeps the buckle from flapping around and possibly scratching the tank..

copsunited on 02/02/09 at 02:20 PM

I see the time line for the 613 Horsehide one star as 1940's. While that may be true I can tell you that in 1955 January to be precise I purchased my first Schott's One star. Purchased it from Stillman's Army Navy Surplus store for $50.00 brand new. Stillman's was located on Lodi Street, off South Salina street in Syracuse New York

 

Schotts.. Perfecto, front quarter Horsehide. If that makes a difference or not. I had it up until the mid 1970's

 

geno

tim on 02/02/09 at 04:30 PM

$50 !!! that's sick! How times have changed, huh? But, of course back then, $50 was a week's wages for a lot of people even as $500-600 is now (as is the cost of a new Schott m'cycle style jacket today...)

funkatirekiller551st on 01/07/10 at 01:32 PM

Hie !

I've three schott perfecto at my home..

An' I look for an old one star perfecto jacket ( 50's-60's ), do you know where I could find one in size 40 ?

Sorry for my bad english.. =S

 

My best, Tibo. =)

GazelleMoto on 01/13/13 at 02:07 PM

Here are some pics of the 50's horse-hide one star: Note top back panel, corduroy strip inside waste and placement of back/arm gussets. Also, length is 22 inches so jacket won't ride up and kidney panel is directly over kidney's. Also note the double row of stiching on the seam that connects the sleeves at the shoulders, last jackets to have this heavy-duty stiching are the "bull and cactus" label jackets from the late 60's, or today's hard to find 613XX. Collar looks to be shorter on the "cactus" labels as well.

Quote

Gail on 02/22/16 at 06:32 AM

Please see my new post on the G-8 jacket you have inquired about. Rather then reply at the bottom of this post about motorcycle jackets, thought it would be more readable under a new post.

Gail

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