Unlined Wool Duffle Coat DU746

I chose the "unlined" version of this "Duffle Coat", because it looked like it had a slimmer cut, in the pictures on this site. I'm not sure if it does or not, but the pockets don't have cover-flaps on this version, and it's built very differently... The shoulder material is cut differently on the lined version (This unlined version the shoulder material doesn't extend all the way to the edge, it's a much nicer design) The cuffs have horn-style buttons on the lined version, while this one has regular big black buttons. The unlined version doesn't have a draw-string for the hood and the toggles are tied with rope, instead of leather latigo. The hood on the lined version has a wide strip of material down the middle, so it's like a "3 panel" hood. This unlined version only has the two halves joined with a seam in the middle. Much more utilitarian and basic and awesome.

Enough about the differences, I really think those small details make this unlined version so much better. Also, I used to have an unlined coat very similar to this, back in the day.

If I could, I'd have chosen 32 ounce wool, instead of the 24 oz wool this one is constructed from.

The quality of workman ship is top-notch. The material is very nice. No pilling, no fraying, and no loose threads. It is very symmetrical and uniform.

This is the classic "Duffle Coat", I have always thought of them as a fisherman's coat. It sticks to it's heritage to a tee - it doesn't add any bells and whistles.

No inside pockets - I guess, since it's not lined. Only the two hand warmer pockets that are positioned in the most perfect place for comfortably chilling with my hands in the pockets. (Sometimes hand-warmer pockets are too high, and you look silly with your hands in them. Or they are too low, and you can't even reach them. I have coats that have both of those shortcomings.)

The hood is the best I've seen in this style of coat. It is very secure, if you button the neck part of the flap at the top of the zipper in front. It does not compare to my Mountain Hardwear hood at all, but it's in a completely different class - so the hood's good.

I like to sit down, with my jacket fully zipped - a lot. While driving, or whatever. This jacket chokes me a little and I have to unzip the top a little to be comfortable while sitting. I would have given it a five star rating, except for this. Many coats have this problem with me, but I also have coats that don't at all, so I know it's possible to not choke me while fully zipped in the seated position.

Perfect fit - true to size. Perfect length sleeves and not too wide of an opening either. Just perfect. The zipper is not YKK, though - I hope it lasts, but I would feel a lot safer if it was YKK. The zipper is "LENZIP" which sounds like a Canadian zipper company to me, so it should do okay. (I just google'd it and they are based out of Chicago, IL, in the USA. I thought it was Canadian, because of that one hit wonder band called, "Len" - they sang, "If you steal my sunshine" - remember?

The toggle buttons are very deep black, with nice texture. I don't know if they are real bone, but they feel like it. Although, maybe a little too smooth, to be real, unless the bone is finished better than most. Meaning, the end is sanded very smooth.

I like the "rope" type attachment of the toggles. Leather usually stretches and tears after time. These look to be some cotton blend of braided rope and are very stiff when new. They are the NICEST toggle loops I've ever seen. They are covered in little triangles of leather though, and the hang loop inside is leather - which I thought was strange. Those are the only places with leather on this coat.

It's as warm as a middle weight wool coat normally is. It's the perfect length as well. This "melton" wool is actually 80% wool / 20% nylon. (I don't remember where I read that, because there is no tag on this jacket, but I know I read that somewhere)

I really like the Red Canadian Maple Leaf on the inside tag. Above that tag, it says, "DUR•O•JAC", which Schott used to name their Leathers Perfecto that had lesser quality hides. Then the tag inside, near your thigh only says, "Dry Clean Only".

EVERY SINGLE seam, has perfect nylon piping to protect all seams. Even down the arms, and the edges.

There is some glue leakage from where the toggle ropes are covered by the leather triangles. Small amounts, but totally noticeable.

The wrist flaps and the neck flap are all backed with a nice cotton liner material. A very nice touch.

All in all, I am extremely pleased with this coat and I LOVE IT! If Schott makes a black one in the USA with 32 ounce wool, I'll definitely buy it! (please?) Also, this coat is VERY DIFFERENT from the lined versions! I hope this helped, and thanks for reading!